How to choose hair oil: A buying guide for every hair type

Grandmothers mostly have a universal solution to all hair problems: a regular and good oil massage! The virtues of hair oiling are well-known and the wisdom of using it right has been passed on generation after generation. From moisturising and nourishing your hair to promoting hair growth, oiling has multiple benefits. It can also help reduce dandruff, prevent itchiness, protect your strands against damage caused by environmental stressors, and make your hair more manageable, softer and stronger. Regular oiling may help enhance shine and lustre and reduce frizz and split ends. But people may often wonder which hair oil may be best for hair growth. This question needs a proper explanation as every hair type has its own needs. So, we have curated an easy-to-understand guide that can help you choose the best hair oil.

Are hair oils important?

Hair oil is an important part of a healthy hair care routine. The best hair oil for hair fall may help fill the gaps in the hair cuticle, lock in moisture and reduce dryness. They may also protect your hair from environmental stressors, heat styling tools and sun damage. By stimulating blood flow to the scalp, oils may help reduce dandruff and itchiness. Regular oiling can reduce frizz, add shine, and softness and make your strands more manageable. In short, hair oils provide an extra layer of protection and care to make the hair healthy and strong.

Dermatologist Dr Vidushi Jain says that hair oil is important for various reasons, from providing nutrition, protecting it from any damage, preventing scalp infections to strengthening hair strands. A study published in the International Journal of Trichology states that hair oils can prevent protein loss, provide antibacterial benefits, increase elasticity, and density and improve overall hair health.

Tips to choose the best hair oils for your hair needs

Using the most suitable hair oil can provide deep nourishment, protection and hydration to the strands. With so many options available, selecting the right oil can be overwhelming, especially considering the diverse hair types, scalp needs and preferences. Here are a few factors that you must consider when choosing a hair oil:

Hair type

To get the maximum benefits of hair oil, it is essential to use the one that is formulated specially for your hair type. Understanding different types of hair can be a great starting point for you to make a wiser decision. A study published in the journal, Proceedings A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences states that hair shapes are categorised into different types like straight, wavy and curly.

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• Straight hair: It is a hair texture that lies flat against the head, without any natural curls or wave pattern. This hair type is often characterised by a smooth, sleek appearance and a lack of bends or curves. It can be fine, medium or coarse in texture and is often more prone to oiliness. Argan oil, jojoba oil and almond oil work best for straight hair as they are lightweight and can impart glossiness to the hair without making it look lumpy, says the expert.
• Wavy hair: This hair texture has a gentle and flowing curve or “S” shape. It falls between straight and curly hair, with a moderate amount of bend and movement. Wavy hair can range from relaxed waves to tighter, more defined waves and it often has a lot of volume and texture. For this hair type, the expert suggests using medium-weight oils like almond oil, argan oil and avocado oil as they can strengthen the hair and boost the waves without weighing them down.
• Curly hair: Curly hair type is often characterised by a distinctive “S” or spiral shape. It has a noticeable bend and curl pattern. This hair type has a lot of natural volume, bounce and texture. Curly hair tends to be more prone to dryness and frizz, so using coconut oil, olive oil and castor oil may help as they can define the curls and keep them moisturised.
• Thick hair: This hair type has a dense, full and coarse texture. Because of its large circumference and more cuticle layers, this hair type is more prone to dryness, frizz and unmanageability. For this hair type, coconut oil, olive oil and castor oil may work the best as they can enter the hair shaft and nourish it from the core to the surface.
• Fine hair: Fine hair type has a light, thin and delicate texture. It has fewer cuticle layers, lacks volume and can be easily weighted down, making them more prone to oiliness, breakage and limpness. The expert suggests using grape seed extracts, jojoba oil and rosehip oil for this hair type as they are non-greasy and fast-absorbing oils.

Also Read: Best Ayurvedic hair oils for hair growth: 10 chemical-free options

2. Scalp types

Scalp type refers to the characteristics of the skin on the scalp. It includes oil production, sensitivity and pH level. Some common scalp types include:

• Normal: This scalp type is characterised by a balanced oil production. It is neither too oily nor too dry. The normal scalp has a healthy pH level, is free from flakiness and has a smooth texture. It can regulate its moisture levels, and keep the hair follicles healthy and strong.
• Oily: An oily scalp type is characterised by the overproduction of sebum. It can lead to a greasy and shiny appearance. This scalp condition may even make your hair look dirty, flat and lifeless and may lead to dandruff formation, itchiness and flakiness. This scalp type is more prone to product buildup, weighing hair down and exacerbating oiliness. Some of the best oils that are beneficial for oily scalp include jojoba oil, tea tree oil and grapeseed oil. These oils may help control the secretion of the sebum and keep the scalp condition favourable.
• Dry: A dry scalp has low sebum production, which leads to a lack of moisture and hydration. This can cause flakes, itchiness, and irritation and may even lead to conditions like dandruff, eczema and psoriasis. A dry scalp is more prone to tightness, redness and sensitivity. Coconut oil, avocado oil and olive oil may work best for this scalp type. “These oils are very rich and can be used to tamper off this skin dryness and formation of flaky skin,” says Dr Vidushi Jain.
• Sensitive: A sensitive scalp type is characterised by itching, redness and irritation. It may also be caused by conditions like eczema, psoriasis or dermatitis. For this scalp type, gentle and fragrance-free jojoba oil, almond oil and argan oil work best.

3. Hair goals

If you know your hair needs and goals closely, you can pick the right product for your hair. Some common hair goals include:

• Hair growth: If you wish to get long and lustrous hair, using a blend of hair growth oils can be beneficial. These oils contain nutrients and antioxidants, which can help promote hair growth, strengthen hair follicles and improve scalp health. Regular oiling can increase the thickness, improve texture, and enhance hair growth rate.
• Hair fall: It refers to excessive hair shedding due to various factors like genetics, stress, hormonal imbalance or poor scalp health. According to Harvard Health Publishing, hair loss can range from mild hair thinning to total baldness. Consistent oiling can help tackle hair fall by nourishing the scalp, and roots, reducing dandruff, and itchiness, improving blood flow and strengthening hair follicles.
• Scalp conditions: Dandruff, psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis are some scalp conditions that can lead to bad hair health. Regular oiling can help combat this problem by reducing flakes, and inflammation, soothing itchiness, balancing scalp pH, nourishing the scalp and promoting healthy hair growth.
• Frizz: Frizzy hair is rough and has an uneven texture. It lacks smoothness and is more prone to puffiness and unmanageability. This condition is often caused by humidity, damage and improper styling.
• Split ends: This condition occurs when hair splits in two or three strands due to damage, dryness or over-processing. Oiling can tackle this by moisturising and nourishing the hair, reducing frizz and breakage. Regular oiling can help repair and prevent split ends, promoting healthy hair growth.

4. Hair texture

Hair texture refers to the natural composition and physical properties of hair, including thickness, patterns, fineness, elasticity and more. These factors determine the appearance, manageability and styling needs of the hair. Some common hair textures, include fine hair  medium and coarse. While fine hair texture can be more prone to oiliness, limpness and breakage, medium hair is neither too thin nor too thick. With balanced texture, volume and hold, this hair texture can hold a style well and is less prone to dryness or oiliness. Coarse hair is thick and dense. This hair texture is more prone to dryness, frizz and unmanageability.

5. Ingredients

It is important to pay close attention to the ingredients of the product you invest in, as they play a key role in nourishing, moisturising and protecting your hair. While buying hair oil, it is important to look for some key ingredients like natural oils, essential fatty acids, antioxidants, hydrating ingredients, protective ingredients and hair growth promoters. According to the International Journal of Trichology, some good hair oils include coconut oil, almond oil, castor oil, sesame oil, mustard oil, amla oil and more.

•  Natural oils: Natural oils like jojoba, coconut, almond, argan, olive and grapeseed oils are important for hair as they can help moisturise and nourish the hair shaft, protect it from damage, balance pH level, prevent shine and more. They may even help prevent hair breakage, enhance manageability, and shine and shield the hair from environmental stressors.
• Essential oils: “Some oils like lavender, rosemary and tea tree oil are also advantageous for hair as they can help to calm the scalp and internally stimulate hair growth,” according to the expert. A study published in the Brazilian Journal of Aromatherapy and Essential Oils, states that essential oils contribute to the overall hair wellness.
• Vitamin E: Vitamin E is an antioxidant that can help to nourish and protect your hair, contributing to hair growth and appearance. It may help to fight free radicals, support follicle health, promote hair growth and enhance shine. The presence of vitamin E in hair oils may help promote strength, reduce dandruff and improve scalp health.
• Biotin: Biotin is an essential hair oil ingredient as it can help strengthen hair follicles and roots. It may also help promote hair growth, and thickness, improve hair elasticity, texture and reduce breakage. This ingredient may even help support keratin production, contributing to healthier hair growth. According to the Skin Appendage Disorders, biotin can improve the manageability of your hair.
• Aloe vera: It contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This vital hair ingredient may help to soothe scalp irritations, and inflammation, and moisturise and nourish dry hair. Aloe vera may even reduce dandruff, protect hair from damage, and breakage, balance pH and add shine to your hair.

6. Ingredients to avoid

Remember to always avoid certain ingredients when it comes to hair care products. A good hair oil should be free from artificial fragrances, dyes, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, parabens and sulphates. These harmful ingredients can cause dryness, irritation, disrupt the balance of your scalp, lead to inflammation of the scalp and more. Dr Vidushi Jain says ingredients like parabens and silicone can remove oils from the hair shaft and follicles, making your hair look dull and lead to hair fall.

Also Read: Stop believing these 3 hair oiling myths for stronger and healthier tresses

7. Formulations

Besides hair type and ingredients, it is important to pay attention to the formulation of the hair oil. A lightweight oil like jojoba and grapeseed are suitable for oily or fine hair types as their penetration is rapid and does not cause any buildup. While medium-weight oils like almond and argan oil are suitable for normal to dry hair as they help to retain moisture, heavy oils like coconut and castor are perfect for thick, curly and dry hair as these hair types require extra care and nourishment.

Are there any side effects of hair oils?

Some people may experience side effects or allergic reactions to hair oil. These may include scalp irritation, redness, inflammation, dryness, hair loss, dandruff and more. If you notice any of these symptoms or to avoid this situation, it is better to perform a patch test. Conduct the test by applying the oil on your inner wrist or behind the ear and observe for the next 24 to 48 hours for any negative reactions according to the expert. Make sure to avoid using products that contain any synthetic ingredients.

How to apply hair oil properly?

To get all the benefits of the hair oil, it is important to apply it properly. Dr Vidushi shares a few hair oiling tips:

1. Use lukewarm oil on the hair as it can help in better penetration into the scalp and hair.
2. Massage your scalp gently with your fingertips after applying the oil. Follow the circular motions for stimulating blood circulation and relieving stress.
3. Make sure to spread the oil evenly into the scalp by using a comb.
4. You can either wash off the oil after 30 minutes or let it sit on your hair for overnight to get better hydration.
5. To get rid of the oil properly, rinse it off with a gentle product without leaving behind any residue.

Follow these tips while buying a hair oil to get effective results.